Ghost Station

Literally passed through the abandoned Yorkville subway station last weekend. Due to tunnel construction work, trains are temporarily being shunted through tunnels and platforms not normally open to the public. Like in the former East Berlin, the train trundles slowly through the station, but does not stop.

My first couple of hours in Berlin last year were spent navigating their subway system, in search of Landsberger Allée. This involved first obtaining Euros at the airport, dealing with a surly clerk at the transit desk, a bus ride to Zoo Station, dealing with a non-English speaking clerk at the tourist bureau, and then figuring out that there was also a weekend reroute, and having to plot a convoluted course across multiple lines to get through it all.

This is pressure-cooker German: standing in each place for a couple minutes at a time, mit Wörterbuch, closely studying the route maps, listening intently to every syllable of an announcement, or waiting under the digital signs for the scrolling message to repeat, and translating a couple more words on each pass.

Speaking with an acquaintance who works for the TTC, the re-routing here took almost a year to plan out. Unlike many other systems, the layout is simple and normally easy-to-use, with only one line serving any given platform, and always in the same direction, to the same terminus. Passengers are not accustomed to checking the destination of the train pulling in to the station. However, with good pre-publicity, constant announcements, numerous staff on hand guiding passengers, and the clear special signage, there didn't seem to be too much confusion after all.

Nevertheless, while it was once a world leader and pioneer, the Toronto Transit system now lags badly. Only recently has the next desperately needed expansion project been approved. Hopefully, continued attention to the "good state of repair" policy will keep the system aging well. In London and New York, they have experienced major failures of some track equipment which is now over 100 years old.

Speaking of old, the Budapest Metro has a Millennium Line, just like the Vancouver SkyTrain. Except that the Hungarian version commemorates the 1000th anniversary of the migration of the Magyars, in 1896. Back in the days of the Empire (Austro-Hungarian), Budapest actually had the second subway system in the world, after London.

Oktogon Station

World's oldest subway systems:

1. London (1863 steam, 1890 electric)


2. Budapest (1896)


3. Boston (1897)


4. Paris (1900)


5. Berlin (1902)


6. New York (1904)

World subways I have actually taken:

• Montréal Métro


• Vancouver SkyTrain


• Boston T


• Chicago L


• New York subway


• Pittsburgh T


• San Francisco BART


• London Underground (Tube)


• Stockholm T-Bana


• Berlin U-Bahn


• Frankfurt U-Bahn


• Vienna U-Bahn


• Budapest Metro

The Long and Winding Road

Many, many years ago, I distinctly remember reading the Guinness Book of Records entry on "most crooked" street in the world.

Lombard Street (at the bottom)

Not surprisingly, there is a 5 mph speed limit. For the record, this block is located at:
37°48.129'N 122°25.155'W

Lombard Street (from the top)

For once, I'm not doing my sightseeing at night, and get some late afternoon sun. In photography terms, the "golden hour" is right after sunrise, and before sunset.

Alcatraz Island

Golden Gate Bridge

Before flying home, there's time for a quick dinner at In-N-Out Burger, followed by a nice stroll down the Embarcadero.

Coit Tower (Telegraph Hill)

Ferry Building

Happy Chinese New Year!

San Francisco Chinatown is one of the oldest and largest in North America, and located right downtown.

Dragon Gate - Grant Avenue/Bush Street

Grant Avenue/Clay Street

Unfortunately, the big parade (quite an event, by most accounts) is not until March.

Happy Valentine's Day!

How did you spend this somewhat contrived "holiday"?

Finding myself in a sleepy suburb of Silicon Valley and all alone, I walked into one of the fancier restaurants in town (without a reservation), and asked for a table for one. Even eating at the bar would be fine. To their credit, the restaurant staff did their best to accommodate this unconventional request, on this day of all days, and from someone wearing a ski jacket in California.

The meal was excellent, and I got my complimentary glass of Valentine's Day wine. I even got to finish my dinner at one of the specially-rented tables for two when the bar became crowded by a large gathering. The wait staff hid their momentary confusion well. I didn't linger for dessert though, as I was surrounded on all sides by couples, and the table was needed for yet another pair.

In the end, an enjoyable evening, and a minor victory for single folk.

Bohemia

It's getting harder to collect passport stamps in Europe. Under the Schengen agreement, and now the European Union, you're more likely than not to be simply waved through the border, assuming there's anyone there to check passports at all.

The Czech Republic is still in the process of opening the borders though, so score two stamps at the Altenberg-Cínovec checkpoint! While our passports were being processed, the gloomy skies tried very hard to snow, but nothing accumulated on the ground, and there will be no winter wonderland in Prague.

The Czech koruna is an endangered species as well. Re-issued at the partition of Czechoslovakia in 1993, it will be replaced by the Euro in 2010 (or later).

Tonight is a first glimpse of downtown Prague.

National Museum

A number of key events in 20th century Czech history took place in the central square, named for St. Wenceslas (Václav).

Václavské Náměstí

Although some 60% of Czechs are non-religious (thanks to Communism), the Prague Christmas market in the Old Town Square is the most charming one so far.

Staroměstké Náměstí

Also in this square, is the famous Astronomical Clock of Prague.

Astronomical Clock

There are those who believe that this is the most overrated tourist attraction in Europe. However, I must say that den Lille Havfrue (the Little Mermaid) in Copenhagen is ahead on that count. The clock at least puts on a show, and there's certainly nothing comparable back home.

Tomorrow, our visit begins in earnest, starting at the Castle Hill.

Hradčany

Dresden

On the flight to Frankfurt, there was a "Weihnachtmärkte Weltweit" photo essay in the Lufthansa Magazin, about the "global phenomenon" of German Christmas markets, in varied and unexpected locales. One of places visited was Dresden.

Dresdner Weihnachtsmarkt

Dresdner Weihnachtsmarkt

Dresden is the capital of Saxony (Sachsen - one of the new Bundesländer that we didn't learn about in German class). While building the new, they are also uncovering the old.

Archaeological Dig in the City Centre

There is an impressive mosaic showing the procession of the medieval dukes of Saxony.

Fürstenzug

There are other mosaics from the Communist era.

Workers Unite!

Much of the city centre was destroyed in 1945, including the most significant cultural and historical buildings. They have since been rebuilt. Despite outward appearances, this part of town is actually quite new.

Semperoper (Opera House)

The most poignant success story is the main Lutheran cathedral, which was rebuilt in time for the 800th anniversary of the founding of Dresden in 1206.

Fire-bombed Remnants of the Frauenkirche

Reconstructed 1992-2005

Ich bin Berliner

Despite bitter cold, I thoroughly enjoyed a walking tour of the city. Our expert guide, Torben, made it truly informative.

There has been an enormous investment in rebuilding Berlin as the capital of reunified Germany.

Hauptbahnhof

One unique symbol of the former East Berlin has thrived - the Ampelmann. After careful consideration of the multitude of capitalist wares, I settle on an Ampelmann ice cube tray.

Der Ampelmann

The main shopping street was once divided by the wall, including the famous Checkpoint Charlie. Today, this seems hard to believe, amid the fanciest shops in the city. Back home, the wall has become an almost abstract concept, difficult to grasp by some under the age of 30.

Friedrichstraße

Another famous boulevard is Unter den Linden.

Unter den Linden

The majestic Brandenburg Gate has been a symbol through many events in German history, over the last two centuries.

Brandenburger Tor

The restored Reichstag has a transparent cupola, with a sophisticated funnel system which lets sunlight in, and hot air out. All symbols of modern democratic government.

Inside the Reichstag Dome

'tis the season for Christmas markets.

Berliner Weihnachtsmarkt

Day at the Museum

Flashback: July 11, 2004

The British Museum

Like the German Reichstag, Norman Foster has had a hand in the modern redevelopment of this historical building.

The Great Court

One of these things doesn't belong here

The Reading Room

Welcome

Among the major artifacts here is a true linguistic milestone.

The Rosetta Stone

Speaking of linguistics, 24 hours in London already has me using bigger words and syntax found only in the Oxford English Dictionary. And is that a hint of an accent? Oops - I just said "elevator"...

The Elgin Marbles

One of the security guards is giving an impromptu commentary on the exhibit. I inquire about the status of the various repatriation campaigns. Apparently, it would require an Act of Parliament to allow their return to the Parthenon in Athens. So they will be staying put for a while.

West Frieze of the Parthenon

East Frieze of the Parthenon

It's been argued that such artifacts have been better preserved in foreign museums, than had they been left where they were found. Also more accessible to the public, and a larger, world-wide audience. This is a valid point, considering the tragic plundering of the National Museum of Iraq in Baghdad.

Ram in a Thicket

Tag am Museum

Like the National Mall in Washington DC, several of Berlin's major museums are grouped together, on the Museumsinsel. There are major renovation plans in progress on this island, which means that a couple of the buildings are unfortunately closed.

Berliner Dom

The main cathedral of Berlin is also located here.

Altes Museum

The Old Museum's most famous piece is the bust of Queen Nefertiti. The building itself is by Schinkel, the noted architect of Berlin (as we have learned).

There is only time to visit one museum, so it will have to be the Pergamon. Main attractions are the Altar of Pergamon, and the Ishtar Gate. Unfortunately, I checked my camera, so other people's photos will have to do.