Day Hike

Flashback: Wednesday, July 21, 2004

Maybe it's because I never play hard (or often) enough, but very fortunately (touch wood), I've never been seriously injured in sports [until November 2006, unfortunately]. A few months prior, I'd landed my left foot awkwardly during a squash game, and could still feel the occasional twinge in the ankle.

The Trek Begins

Today, Hart and I are putting ourselves to the test, taking our turn at a big hike. Fuelled by our standard rations of cheese and Nutella sandwiches, we were looking at a full day in the hills.

Sjónarsker Viewpoint

Above the hexagonal basalt formations surrounding the Svartifoss, is the first landmark, with obligatory panorama sundial.

Skaftafellsheiði

It's all so verdant here. Among the mosses and tall grass of the heiði (heath), we take lunch. It's a pleasant day, and pleasant conversation.

Long uphill climb

One of many reasons for taking this trip was a milestone birthday, and a sense of time slipping away. I could only hope that I'm a fraction as strong as Hart when I'm in my 60's. Not many people could survive being run over by a motorboat in a drunken hit-and-run like he did. It can't be that easy, but he still handles the climb very well. For scale, note the figures ahead, walking up the path.

Over the Edge

The more daring members of the group are going to the Kjós Valley, tucked in behind the mountain on the left, around the bend. It's supposed to be spectacular, but it doesn't seem as scenic a route, trudging along the Morsárdalur, looking up at the mountains. At least that's what I tell myself. From up here, we also get to see part of the Morsárjökull, and the lake at its base, from afar.

Kristínartindar

The highest summit on this side of the glacier is the ridge on Kristínartindar. That will be left for next time.

The Real Prize

It's good that we chose the clockwise direction. The views just kept getting better and better, until we reached Gláma on the east, overlooking the glacier. Note the adventurous photographer behind the rock. Don't step back!

Gláma Viewpoint

According to GPS, it's over 400 m down. To solid ice. This unadventurous photographer will stay well back from the edge. Especially after Hart almost lost his footing in the wind.

Skaftafellsjökull panorama

The scale of this place seems scarcely believable. You can't even take it all in without turning your whole body around. No wide angle lens is wide enough, which is where digital comes in.

Long way down

On the downward path, there's one last lookout from Sjónarnípa, over the foot of Skaftafellsjökull. Then it's trudging back through the brush, down to camp.

Breaking Up

By my reckoning, at least 15 km, in a leisurely 7.5 hours, including a lunch stop. Not a bad day at all. Unforgettable.

I can see for miles and miles

"Getting older sucks, but it sure beats the alternative: getting deader." - Joe C.

Cash Flow

Most ATMs outside of North America do not have letters printed on the numeric keypad. This makes sense, since the local alphabet is usually not English. The sequence of the keys may even be reversed, following the pattern on the computer keyboard (the number 1 in the bottom left corner), rather than the telephone (starting from the top left).

I first learned this long ago, the hard way, in Kirkjubæjarklaustur, while trying to get some krónur (ISK) to buy lunch. It took a hurriedly drawn diagram on a scrap of paper before I could enter my PIN. However, that won't help if you've forgotten/never chosen a PIN for your Eurocard (Mastercard) kontokort in Sweden, where a PIN is sometimes required for transactions.

The second tip I learned about foreign currency is not to withdraw a round number, but an amount like €180, or 990 HUF, so that you always get some small bills. A very accommodating shopkeeper in Old Town Prague once allowed me to buy some fruit and water with a 2000 koruna (CZK) note.

When the credit card bills come in after a vacation, I'm glad that I followed and then forgot about a third tip, to conceal a €50 note separate from the rest of your valuables, like deep in the pages of a guide book. It's as good as finding an $80 bill in the pocket of an old coat. Just the extra incentive to do some more tidying up.